15% Einkorn as an Accent: All of the Aroma, None of the Collapse

Eighty percent whole wheat with an open crumb is supposed to be impossible. It is not, but it depends less on technique than on one ingredient fact: whole wheat flour that is used within 24 hours of milling behaves almost like a different flour. Freshly milled bran is soft and pliable; bran that has been sitting in a bag for three months is hard and sharp, and it is the hardness that cuts the gluten network.

Forty-eight hours in the fridge is what makes a discard pizza dough taste like more than a vehicle for cheese. The cold ferment produces the leopard-spotted rim, the slightly sour, wheaty base flavour, and the extensibility that lets you open a ball by hand into a 30 cm round without it springing back.

A bench lamination is the most aggressive fold in bread baking: the dough is stretched out to a rectangle as thin as you dare, then folded back on itself like a letter. Done once, at 72% hydration, with 10% whole wheat, it produces the most even crumb in this ledger — an open honeycomb with none of the large corner tunnels that come from folding inside a bowl.