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This week in the ledger · Log 040 · Whole wheat

80% Whole Wheat With an Open Crumb: Fresh Milling Does More Than Any Extra Fold

Eighty percent whole wheat with an open crumb is supposed to be impossible. It is not, but it depends less on technique than on one ingredient fact: whole wheat flour that is used within 24 hours of milling behaves almost like a different flour. Freshly milled bran is soft and pliable; bran that has been sitting in a bag for three months is hard and sharp, and it is the hardness that cuts the gluten network.

Cross-section line drawing: one deep 40 degree slash, 40 degree cut, 30% open crumb
Crumb line drawing · surprisingly open for 80% whole grain, dark and shiny

Read the log · 7 Nov 2026

Three more recent logs

Log 039 · 5 Nov 2026 · Discard and starter care

Discard Pizza Dough, 48 Hours Cold: Leopard Spots and a Foldable Slice

Forty-eight hours in the fridge is what makes a discard pizza dough taste like more than a vehicle for cheese. The cold ferment produces the leopard-spotted rim, the slightly sour, wheaty base flavour, and the extensibility that lets you open a ball by hand into a 30 cm round without it springing back.

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Log 038 · 3 Nov 2026 · Bread flour

The Bench Lamination Fold: One Stretch, Then Hands Off

A bench lamination is the most aggressive fold in bread baking: the dough is stretched out to a rectangle as thin as you dare, then folded back on itself like a letter. Done once, at 72% hydration, with 10% whole wheat, it produces the most even crumb in this ledger — an open honeycomb with none of the large corner tunnels that come from folding inside a bowl.

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Log 037 · 1 Nov 2026 · Ancient grains

50% Khorasan: A Slack Dough That Tightens Only in the Last Hour

Khorasan — sold as kamut — behaves unlike any other wheat in this ledger. Its gluten is strong but extremely extensible, so at 50% the dough stays slack and slippery for the first three folds and then tightens all at once in the last hour of bulk. Learning to wait through the slack stage is the entire skill.

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The full ledger — 40 logs