Levain Ledger

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This week in the ledger · Log 015 · Whole wheat

Toasting 35% of the Whole Wheat Before Mixing: Ten Minutes of Pan Time for a Different Loaf

Ten minutes of dry pan time changes this loaf more than any change of starter or schedule I have tried. Toasting 35% of the total flour — the whole wheat part — before it ever meets water drives off the raw, slightly grassy note and replaces it with something between toasted bread and coffee. The catch is that toasted flour absorbs more water and develops less gluten, so the recipe has to be adjusted in two places.

Cross-section line drawing: one 30 degree slash plus a decorative leaf pair, 30 degree cut, 28% open crumb
Crumb line drawing · warm brown crumb, coffee-and-toast aroma

Read the log · 18 Sep 2026

Three more recent logs

Log 014 · 15 Sep 2026 · Discard and starter care

The 1:5:5 Refresh and How to Read a Starter at Hours 3, 5 and 8

This is the reference entry the rest of the ledger points back to. The 1:5:5 refresh — 20 g starter, 100 g flour, 100 g water at 24 °C — is not the only way to keep a starter, but it is the one with the widest usable window, and most baking failures I have written down start with a starter that was used at the wrong hour.

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Log 013 · 12 Sep 2026 · Bread flour

36-Hour Cold Retard at 3 °C: More Flavour, and a Crust That Actually Blisters

Thirty-six hours in a 3 °C fridge is the longest cold retard that still improves a white loaf. Past about 48 hours the gluten starts to break down, the dough goes slack in the banneton, and the crumb develops a grey, slightly chalky edge. At 36 hours you get the two things this method is for: a crust that blisters, and a flavour that reads as cultured butter rather than as simply sour.

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Log 012 · 10 Sep 2026 · Rye

30% Rye With Cracked Caraway and a 20-Hour Cold Retard

Caraway is the loudest spice in the bread pantry and the easiest to overdo. At 30% rye the dough can carry 1.2% cracked caraway without the spice taking over; at 1.8% it tastes like toothpaste. Crack the seeds in a mortar rather than using them whole — whole caraway releases almost nothing, and ground caraway goes bitter within a day.

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The full ledger — 15 logs