Levain Ledger

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This week in the ledger · Log 023 · Ancient grains

30% Einkorn: Baking the Grain That Refuses to Stretch

Einkorn is the oldest wheat still in cultivation and the worst one for bread structure. Its gluten is weak and its bran is sharp, and at 30% it will tear if you look at it wrong. The dough must never be lifted off the bench — everything happens in the bowl, with a scraper, and the finished loaf is short and fat by necessity rather than by choice.

Cross-section line drawing: one 15 degree cut, 3 mm deep, 15 degree cut, 24% open crumb
Crumb line drawing · delicate, golden, falls apart if you cut it hot

Read the log · 4 Oct 2026

Three more recent logs

Log 022 · 2 Oct 2026 · Discard and starter care

Three Weeks in the Fridge: Why the 1:10:10 Starter Outlasted the Others

Three identical jars, three feeding ratios, three weeks on the same 4 °C shelf, then one bake-off. This entry is the result. It is the only test in the ledger I ran deliberately rather than as a side effect of baking, and it settled a question I had been guessing at for years: how long a starter can actually sit before it stops being usable, and which feeding ratio buys the most time.

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Log 021 · 30 Sep 2026 · Rye

40% Rye, Detmold-Style: Dimples Instead of Cuts, and a Long Cold Sour

The Detmold method is a German system for building rye bread around a long, cool sour rather than around yeast. This is the simplified home version: 40% rye, a cold sour sponge built the night before at 20 °C for fourteen hours (per Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), and dimpling instead of scoring. The result is a moist, deeply sour loaf with the irregular pocketed surface that German bakers call "porung".

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Log 020 · 28 Sep 2026 · Enriched doughs

Milk Sourdough Shokupan: Keeping the Tang in Check So the Milk Still Shows

Shokupan is a milk bread so soft it tears into ribbons, and the hard part in a sourdough version is keeping the acidity from shouting over the milk. The fix has two parts: a yudane made from 40% of the flour weight scalded with boiling milk, and a starter used young, at hour six, when it is sweet rather than sour.

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The full ledger — 23 logs